There I Was…Street Painting In Chicago

This is an amazing story from our designer of Tilda and Murphy’s Law labels, Nick Adam, which deserves to be spread around. Please link, rss, cut and paste or share via printer this real life Chicago scene and comment on non functional neighborhoods.

Credit for the mural painted four weeks ago: Thor, ShipWrek, Risk aka Erik DeBat, Nicky Dieter, Yoinks, and BR.

There I was…

Murial at 32nd and Morgan

… 99 degrees and high humidity, I’m on 32nd Place and Morgan Street, 3 blocks West of Halsted. The block had been flooding for 3 days due to a stripped fire hydrant the children play in. City workers did not return calls nor show up to stop the flow of water from further damaging the already flooded basements. There is trash everywhere tumble-weeding up the street, leaking bags stacked against buildings and the sun has triggered this potpourri. Ten to fifteen heads bob in and out of two, three, and four story buildings much like the “wac-a-mole” game at 1980’s arcades. They communicate amongst each other and the several groups of black and gold dressed men, women, and children. They give notice when police are arriving, if a rival crossed boundaries, or if strangers where in the neighborhood.

“YOU TAKEN PICTURES OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD MOUTHERF*@#A?? BETTER NOT HAVE ME ON THAT CAMERA. IF YOU’RE POLICE YOU KNOW YOU HAVE TO ANNOUNCE YOURSELF!”

“I’m not taking any photos, a couple people and I are going to paint this wall. I’ll be taking photos of that.”

“WE ARE GOING TO WATCH YOU. DON’T TAKE PHOTOS OF US.. THE HOUSES. OR ANYTHING GOING ON.”

This is very much forgotten community, one that the 33rd Latin King Nation is in complete control. A neighborhood I’d later find out from police is the driving cause for Chicago’s murder rate to climb 18% in 2008 alone, reaching pre 1990’s numbers. Our wall is parallel with the corner the LKN holds down. A one-lane, one-way street separates us. Four days and nights (not all night) were spent painting a mural amongst the chaotic anarchy of a gang keeping control.

“GET THOSE COLORS THE F*$@ OFF THAT WALL. YOU WANNA DO SOMETHING THERE? USE BLACK AND GOLD ONLY.”

“You don’t think this is looking nice? Come over here… check it out…”

Several times what seem to be happening unprovoked nor-forewarned a swarm of the LKN would burst from all surrounding buildings assemble in the middle of Morgan St. and give chase to a passing vehicle. Vehicle were stopped by throwing a brick threw the window. Sometimes the driver would be draged to the asphalt and beaten.

“33RD BITCHES!!! AMOR DEL REY NIG%#@*H! KING LOVE! WHAT!!! WHAT NIG%#@*H!

First-hand we saw countless altercations involving that of rival gangs, police, and drug-customers which the community and children are plagued with day in and day out. Night was the worse… everything is in everyones face louder then ever and increasingly rampant like out of movies,

“I am a nightmare walking, psychopath talking
King of my jungle just a gangster stalking
Living life like a firecracker quick is my fuse”
Then dead as a deathpack the colors I choose”
COLORS, Director: Dennis Hopper, 1985

I recal twice us all bee-lining to seek refuge inside the building we were painting (they gave us the keys for that purpose). Getting in there and then away from all the windows our blood would turn to pins and needles, chilling thoughts of a bus whizzing by inches from me… or a driver-side door flying open allowing a split second veer on my bike… would fill my head…

This area of the city has since it’s date of origin been predominantly Irish and Sicilian. Much of Chicago’s police force and the entire Daley family was rooted here but long since has been transplanted. Bridgeport has grown to house a Budist temple with a large local Asian sect, several housing projects with a poorer class of whites, blacks and Mexicans, and recently several galleries and artist communities. Making the neighborhood the 4th most diverse area of Chicago. Yet I never saw any interaction… not a hello, a smile, or any form of acknowledgement.

While painting I gave great effort to positively engage every person that stopped by. Often inviting a separate party into the conversation. On the last day of painting this heavily diverse yet entirely segregated community spent the entire time together on that street talking to each other, grilling out, and commending us on bring something wonderful and new to a community that has not felt such warmth in over 15 years. As my car provided the music for the improv’d block party, one of the older gang members joked about wanting to steal my car, I joked back with a dead serious face saying, “Why do you have to make me feel uncomfortable?” While we each laugh pretty hard I sense he as I understood great comedy is based on truth. It was time to take the keys out of the car.

At the end of the night two of the kings and I swept the entire street. Debris, glass, and garbage were swept away for what I imagine was the first time since winter.

Nothing outside of general style on this wall was pre-decided or conceived before painting it. We walked into shocking hostility, that compounded with the falling economy and our independent struggles we saw destruction, felt hate, and created this. I hope the children remember our smiles, greetings and demeanor, I don’t believe they see many positive adults in their lives. I hope this mural will act as a sensory overload and will spark a curiosity that will save them from a doomed life of gangbanging.

The large image is the entire wall shot 2 weeks after painting it as seen here and as it is on the street, it remains untouched.The smaller picture is of “Lil’ C” of the latin kings. His crown tattoo is repeated above his eyes and on his hands. He is 17.

Murial and Tattoo

Copain Wines and Viognier

The latest release of Copain wines has hit the street, so to speak. And this vintage of Mendocino viognier is utterly amazing for the price. This 2007 Mendocino Copain Viognier is everything that you want from a California viognier without being blown out of proportion. The sweet spot of vibrant and exotic fruit is not overwhelmed by gobs of oak or alcohol. The palate is laser clean and dances like a tipee-toed ballerina on the tongue. And the finish is persistent with a hint of mineral. This is an American viognier to be proud of. It’s no surprise that the wine is so balanced and vibrant. Wells Guthrie, the wine maker and catalyst for Copain, took his training for two years in the Rhone Valley working under Chapoutier. Digging it out in the south of France with the fundamental and phenomenal producer M Chapoutier will give a young wine maker a sense of place and respect for typicity and style. And that is exactly what this viognier delivers. If you can find some I highly recommend grabbing a bottle or two, turning up the tunes and making dinner outside while the summer is still hot.

Here are the technical notes on the wine:

Varietals: 90% Viognier; 10% Roussanne
Appellation: Mendocino County
Production: 1158 cases
Harvest Date: September 10, 2007
Release Date: June 2008
Alcohol: 13.7%
pH: 3.62
TA: 6.1 grams/liter

Le Clos du Caillou Rose 2007 - Cotes du Rhone

Again I’m so impressed with the quality of this property and all that they do. Le Clos du Caillou continues to make very high quality wines at all levels. We were lucky enough to grab a bottle of the 07 Caillou CDR rose. Let’s just first start the conversation with the color of the wine instead of the press scores, terroir or oozing about the aroma. Looking at wine, if done often, reveals another dimension in the pleasure of consuming the world’s most fascinating beverage. You can tell if the wine will have higher than usual alcohol or sugars. You can get clues as to whether the vintage was warmer or cooler, how much extraction and time during ferment passed as well as certain vinification techniques like filtred, non filtred, etc.

Caillou’s 07 rose is an amazing light shade of red. Imagine crushing bright red rose petals into a tall glass of water and then adding a dash of orange zest. Voila, you have this vintage of spanking fresh, vibrant and joyful rose. The wine lightly grabs the sides of the glass and what legs that do form form slowly and quietly. The light shade of pink and hints of orange tell me it was a beautiful saignee with some ripe grapes, balanced and refreshing. Brilliantly clean and refractive of sunlight. It looks like the ultimate summer rose, but my wife and I say, why restrict ourselves to summer only. Roses are brilliant all year round and go with myriad of foods.  If you are lucky enough to come across this wine get some and treat yourself.

Tasting note from the importer: A vibrant pink in the glass, this rosé shows raspberries, blood peaches and pink roses on the nose. Flavors are complex and densely layered, yet drink effortlessly—poached cherries blend with orange water on the palate. A blend of 40% Counoise, 35% Mourvèdre and 25% Grenache; full-bodied like a red wine, and will age well for several years.

Federal Wine and Spirits - Boston

The Federal Wine and Spirits bottle shop in Boston has to be one of the most interesting retailers that I’ve come across in years. Federal Wine and Spirits is located in historic downtown Boston, next to the Old State Building. The Old State Building is the oldest public building in Boston built in 1713. This fantastic red brick edifice was the seat of the first elected legislature in the New World! The likes of John Hancock, Thomas Craft, John Adams and others were at the epicenter of this political hub. And the Declaration of Independence was read from the balcony on July 18th, 1776…and is read from the same balcony each Fourth of July.

This is where you’ll find Federal Wine and Spirits, headed by a garrulous and enchanting man Leonard (Len) Rothenberg. As you enter the shop you might wonder what is really going on here. The space is small and tightly conformed to the corner shape of the building. A thoughtful collection of wines, spirits, ports and madeiras wrap around the walls in front of an old cash counter. But the real gem lies below. Walk down the slim and winding staircase and you’ll see what I mean. A bevy of boxes, old world and new world wines alike. This is where the weekly tastings are held and gems are revealed. The old adage, trust your retailer, could never be more a propos. The wine world has become slightly cynical and full of hype so today is truly the day when you should be able to rely on your expert bottle shop owner to decipher the morass of wine scores and press to bring you the best selection available in the market place today.

Check out their website and offerings. The writing is refreshingly clear, honest and dedicated to high quality regardless of price point.

http://www.federalwine.com/

Giovanni Cherchi

I was so pleasantly surprised to find a killer value Vermentino from Giovanni Cherchi this last weekend.  I was traveling through San Francisco and was deciding on a place where my wife and I might find dinner and we happened across a new restaurant named Anchor and Hope.  This is the third restaurant from the Town Hall and Salt House group and it was excellent.  We ordered seafood and I could think of nothing better than to go to the Italian islands and find an excellent bottle of white wine to go with our dinner.  Giovanni Cherchi is a cherished young winemaker from Sardegna, Italy.  He has about 20+ hectares of land with about 60% of it planted to the delicious Vermentino variety.  Almost all the vineyards in Sardegna are located close to the water and this is no exception.  About 200 meter elevation and close to the cliffs of the coast Cherchi’s Vermention is the classique full bodied wine that you would expect with the coastal ocean terroir heavily influencing the nuances of the wine.  Pale straw in color and delightful pear, honey and citrus fruit tones balance with the saline terroir to give an excellent finish and fine pairing to fresh seafood.

Explore a Vermentino if you haven’t already, they are worth the effort to seek out.

Raventos, A Page in History

Have you heard of Cava? If not let me briefly explain. Cava is Spain’s version of Champagne. It was not until the 1980’s when the European Community outlawed everyone outside of Champagne, France from labeling their wines as Champagne, thus Spain adopted a new translation and this amazing wine now is known as Cava. in 1872 a young man named Josep M Raventos went to Champagne to study, record and learn the methode champenoise (or the rules and protocols of making true champagne). Mr Raventos brought the hand written notes, diagrams and directions back home and began making his own version of champagne with indigenous grape varietals of Penedes, Xarello, Macabeo and Parallada.

I had the pleasure of spending an afternoon with his great grandson who oversees this venerable and magnificent property in Spain (about 25 east of Barcelona). Young Josep Raventos is the 19th generation in his family to grow grapes and the third generation to make wine under their family’s name, Raventos. It boggles my mind that just after Columbus set sail to “discover” the new world the Raventos family was planting their first vineyards, and on their property still lives a 500 year old oak tree that represents the time, terroir and history of the family and their lives that have been intertwined with all those seasons, all those vintages and good God, all those glorious wines.

If you are looking for truly one of the best Spanish wines and have not tried Cava this is the one that you must experience. Everything is done to perfection, balance and harmony, even their entry level Cava called l’Hereu (meaning heritage in Catalan) is as delicious as spring time. They also make a still wine named Silencis out of mainly Xarello. Stunningly bright with mineral edges and wafts of lemon blossom on the finish.

I can’t say enough about the family, so if you are in Spain look them up. If you are in the States just grab a bottle of Cava for your next dinner.

Duckfat

I have a hard time thinking of few gastronomic pleasures better than bacon, but duck fat has to be up in the stratosphere for pure frying pleasure.  With that in mind this is my story: last month I’m driving through rainy, misty New England on my way to Maine and my mind is wrapped in warm thoughts of woodfire stoves, Irish sweaters and mugs of steamy soup to counterbalance the wet, cold, gray rain and patches of slowly melting snow.  The drive seems longer than usual and state troopers are pulling drivers over every 10 miles or so.  The traffic is moving at a modest 65mph (I know if you are in California you are thinking to your self, isn’t the speed limit a minimum, not a maximum?).  I pull into the gorgeous seaside town, Portland, and begin searching for food.  I pull hard to the right when I see a small sign in yellow painted on a window that says DUCKFAT.  What?  Are they duck fat renderers/producers, a cold storage operation for the North East’s confit lovers, or someone who just has a great sense of humor?  They are a restaurant.  And their slogan is, “Why duck fat fries? Because DUCK FAT makes fries taste good!”

I stroll into the lovely smelling, tiny restaurant where you order at the counter and they bring directly to you amazing home cooked, from scratch meal and french fries of course cooked in duck fat.  So I order an Allagash White (a delicious Belgian style wheat beer with hints of spice and a textured and smooth body), fries and a hot, crispy duck confit panini.  

There is seriously nothing better than to enjoy homemade gourmet food in an authentic small restaurant and to be warmed not only by the food but by the spirit of the place and the honest care in preparation and execution.  DUCKFAT, I will be back!

Cocktails at a Wine Bar

My lovely wife and I were so happy that a new wine bar opened in Chicago this last weekend that we ran out of the house to check it out.  It is the brain child of Shane and Jill Kissack in Andersonville - Chicago, owners of a great bottle shop called In Fine Spirits that houses not only excellent wines at all price points (that are hard to find or off the grocery store radar) but they have killer micro brew beers and premium sake!  So they do it again and bring to sleepy and adorable Andersonville a brave new wine bar.  But guess what? At a wine bar I was lured into COCKTAILS. And they were unbelievably good.  I try not to discriminate in my drinking (I drink any and all types of beverages, someone needs to keep up with those mixologists) so I was convinced by an extremely enthusiastic and adept bartender, Carlo, to try his signature, old school Manhattan.  This was, without a doubt the best Manhattan that I’ve ever had. Perfectly balanced, perfectly chilled and flavors and aromas that were seamless with one another.  Here is Carlo’s recipe:

2oz. Benchmark Bourbon

1oz. Sweet Vermouth

Tiny, tiny splash of marasca liqueur and two skewered dark/black cherries.  Shake and stir!

So, the unexpected amazing intoxicologist at a Chicago wine bar blows my mind, not with deft and savvy wine stories or poetic and romantic histories of European wines, but with a classic American cocktail that left a sweet memory.  It was so good I had to post it. Go figure, or better yet, go get a cocktail!

Domaine du Caillou 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape

I was tasting wines at another Chicago locals spot tonight and we opened a bottle of 2005 Domaine du Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape.  Holy Cow! It is dellllllicious!  The Vacheron family and winemaker Bruno Gaspard have some amazing vineyards and it really speaks true with this wine. I can’t believe that this wine is almost all grenache (99%). It was a silky smoothness that I don’t normally find in pure grenache ( not the normal dusty tannins and juvenile grip).  Perhaps it has to do with the 100+ year old vines, or the modern wine making technique.  Tasting this wine tonight shows the clean, pure and vibrant texture of brilliant CNDP. It is darker in aroma than the last time I was fortunate to taste it, with more country side floral aromas and blackberry than raspberry tones. The small amount of bottle age is treating the wine extremely well. Excellent finish and garrigue like terroir. I only wished that we’d had some duck or rabbit to go with it. Well, even if the dollar is slumping against the Euro, the price of oil continues to rise, and the value of my house is going steadily down, at least I know that there is still breathtaking wine out there.

Gioco Restaurant

I was having lunch at my favorite Chicago Italian restaurant, Gioco, in the South Loop. The General Manager was kind enough to pour us some killer Gavi di Gavi. 2006 Stephano Massone Masera Gavi from Marc de Grazia Selection Imports. It was brilliant in structure, citrus and almond notes on the nose with a very good dose of terroir that is reminiscent of sun-baked granite. The structure and balance rings true on the palate and the wine was perfect with our first 60 degree day in Chicago this year!

And then we noticed a bottle on the back bar that just screamed SNAFU. Another blunderbuss in the wine industry. 40cs of Jewel Collection pinot noir of Provincia di Pavia made at Woodbridge were shipped to Chicago with the front label printed upside down. What, upside down? Who was on the bottling line having a smoke break? I was told the story over lunch and just couldn’t resist in sharing. Here’s to all the daily snafu’s that we meet in all walks of life.